buns. ha-ha, buns.

Posted in Uncategorized on July 27, 2009 by mr_smith

buns_smalli love buns.
who doesn’t? the chinese kind i mean. all steamy and glossy on the outside , soft and pillowy sticky white on the inside witha little surprise package of a not-always-sure-about-what-exactly-that-is inside.  sometimes sweet red bean, and othertimes  mushrooms or chicken in that slippery cornstarch sauce. but the king of them all must be the amazingly red char sieuw pork. i’ve had the frozen variety countless times and, unlike most frozen aproximations, usually with a good degree of success, and whenever i have the chance i’ll order them in a restaurant. there’s just something special about the way the strange bread-but-not-bread combines texturally with the surprise inside and the steamy subtle flavour from the bamboo steamer itself.  i had always assumed that, like a lot of baking and pastry construction, the making of these little buns would be well beyond the reach of a gorgeous, but admittedly less than scientific cook such as myself.

thankfully, how wrong i was. it’s easy, kids, and one of the more satisfying first-tries i’ve completed . i guess you could fill them with anything you like, and i’ve tried two different approaches, both of which worked really well. the first one is non-traditional and to use the buns like a burger bun: you make a plain bun with no filling, then slice it like a breadroll and fill it up with all kinds of nice stuff like a kind of fusion burger. i did it with slow bbq’ed asian style pork belly with scallions and oyster sauce.  it was amazing. and amazingly easy. it was so amazing that i was overwhelmed and neglected to take any photographs to serve as evidence. i think the secret was the pork belly. i just covered it with a little sesame oild, some garlic and some five-spice powder then put it in a not-to-hot indirect charcoal bbq (which is fast becoming my favourite thing ever) for about three hours putting a splash of chinese rice wine at about the hour-forty mark. then sliced it up, stired in some oyster sauce and scallions, dropped on a few more sesame seeds and into sliced buns.

the second approach was an attmpt at the more traditional chinese bun. basically the same dough, but with the filling locked up inside before it gets steamed. i chose mushrooms in that slippery cornstarch-y sauce mostly because i didn’t have time to cook a four hour pork belly. for the mushrooms i just cooked a mix of different guys in a little oil with some garlic and scallions and a star anise, as well as  a rice wine and a little black vinegar. i made a paste of cornstarch and a really small amount of water and then just added more cornstarch, then more water untill i got the shiny slippery radness to go nicely with the mushrooms.

making the buns was exactly the same as the first time, but instead of just making balls (ha-ha, balls) i made flat discs and spooned some of the shrooms onto each one, then folded them all together into mushroom filled balls (ha-ha, filled balls).

into the steamer then into my mouth.

here’s the basic buns recipe:

  • 1 cake fresh yeast
  • 1 cup lukewarm water
  • 4 1/2 cups flour
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 2 tablespoons  vegetable oil
  • 1/2 cup boiling water
  • 2 tablespoons sesame seed oil

Dissolve yeast in lukewarm water. Add 1 cup of flour. Mix thoroughly. Cover with cloth. Let rise 1 hour, until bubbles appear.

Dissolve sugar and vegetable oil in 1/2 cup boiling water. Stir well. Cool until lukewarm. Pour into yeast mixture. Add 3 1/2 cups flour.

Knead dough on lightly floured board until smooth. Put into extra large, greased bowl in a warm place. Cover with damp cloth. Let rise until double in bulk, about 2 hours.

Divide into 2 portions. Remove first portion and knead 2 minutes. Repeat with second. Roll each into roll 12 inches long and 2 inches wide. Cut into 12 pieces (24 total).

Flatten each piece with palm of hand. Roll with rolling pin into 3 inch circles.

Brush with sesame seed oil. Indent middle of circle with chopstick. Fold circle in half so that it becomes a half moon. Crimp edges tightly with fork.

Place each roll on separate square piece of paper on steamer tray. Cover tray with towel. Let buns rise to double in bulk, about 30 minutes. Remove towel.

Steam over  boiling water for 10 minutes.

panna cotta made from awesome

Posted in Uncategorized on June 26, 2009 by mr_smith

hard at work as usual, piloting my desk headlong into a storm of middle aged women and rabbits suffering terribly from hutch fever, i was perusing the usual catalogue of food and pornography related news media that i like to keep abreast of (ha ha, breast). i was struck by a particularly neat idea. it wasn’t, in fact, my idea, it was from the woderful website the kitchn. it was for a remarkably tasty sounding rosewater and blueberry yoghurt panna cotta. I’ve had a hankering to do something with roses for a while now. ever since my neighbourhood burst into bloom. it’s probably the best thing about english summer, the smell of all the roses lining the approach to smith and co hq is intoxicating and delightful (although i did have a can of jd and coke with lunch – classy). On top of this infatuation with the rose, i love panna cotta. it’s easy, quick (apart from the chilling time), and it never fails to impress. this recipe suggests substituting some or all of the cream for yoghurt, to give it a bit of a tang.

i didn’t actually follow the recipe on the kitchn, rather i used one that i’d had considerable success with in the past. being me, and something of an impulsive type, i bought a tub of organic sheeps milk yoghurt for about as much tang as is possible. i also had a slightly different plan for the  rosewater. i decided to make rosewater and mint syrup, from scratch i might add ( it was pretty freakin easy: get a rose, remove the petals, rinse petals, steep in hot water with one or two mint leaves) i had fully intended to make rose syrup caviar, but my technique was incorrect and i wrecked the whole lot of the syrup, annoyingly. -morre about my attempts at molecular gastronomy in a later post.  here’s my recipe for the panna cotta:

pannacotta

i forgot to take fotos of the actual pannacotta, but i think you'll agree that this is a pretty faithful representation. the rays coming off the side are rays of awesome

  • 2 gelatine leaves
  • 30 ml milk
  • vanilla pod
  • 350ml organic goats milk yoghurt.
  • 100ml cream

soak the gelatine in cold water.
put milk & yoghurt & vanilla pod intoa saucepan and simmer gently until it thickens.

whip the cream with vanilla sugar (you do have some right?)

fold the two together, put in molds, chill until set.

the first one that we had was nice, although the texture was somewhere between a lovely creamy pannacotta and a coarse ricotta cheesecake, and the taste was probably slightly over tangy. so i came up with yet another friggin genius idea.  add awesome greek honey and a little grated chocolate, and serve with a vacuum expanded grapefruit and limoncello sorbet.

what a combo, the honey just took away all the (frankly) sourness of the yoghurt.
it would probably have been nice with some sore sugar in the original mix also. and perhaps some blanched hazelnuts.
- ah that gives me an idea…

a taste for katering

Posted in foodstuffs on June 12, 2009 by mr_smith
i recognize this is a pretty offensive image, but it's still funny

i recognize this is a pretty offensive image, but it's still funny

last night, i did some almost impromptu cateing for the late-night crew at mrs smith’s workplace.  the hard working agency types were pulling a radical all-nighter (probably super top-secret like most things in the high powered world of advertisation). i must say i was impressed, and somewhat flabbergsted at the commitment displayed by these indsutrious little advertising elves, particularly as i am an intensely lazy individual whose main focus while “on the job” is to craft novelty towers from the office recycling or stare out the window dreaming of a better place where unicorns lick my face…

anyway…

mrs smith decided that in order to work all night at their optimum performance levels, these creative types needed a little dash of culinary inspiration (i.e. dinner). so she enlisted my help to provide her typewriter monkeys with the vital sustenance they needed to keep working long into the dark night.

I’ve not really done much in the way of catering before (apart from a team away day for the now sadly defunct “food is love”) but i do find it kind of exciting. not like something i’d like to do for a job, but there is something quite satisfying about making food for a large (ish) group of people outside of a dinner party or similar setting.  i suppose it’s the lack of connection that means no-one has to complement you if they don’t feel that what you’ve produced is any good. if, for example (and i was a little concerned about this myself), what you serve is too spicy, or salty, or flawed in some other way, chances are that you’ll hear about it, and most likely directly. especially if you’re being paid (which i wasn’t for some reason – i guess it’s all about the love here at smith & co.). unlike at a dinner party where you’ll usually go out of your way to complement the host and his cuisine while guzzling gallons of cheap rose, only to bitch about how the mussels were rubbery and trifle just isn’t innovative on the bikeride home (and if you don’t bike home, then that’s why you’re fat). so i was quite keen to see how this whole event would go .

perhaps predictably, i decided on korexican birdreedos as beeing a pretty good option for the 20 or so people who really weren’t there for the food, but were there to work. it’s an interesting set of flavours, oh so trendy, easily adjusted on the spice-o-meter, and all packaged up into a familliar tortilla shaped wrap that even the most culinarily prudish can relate to. there was at least one vegetarian, so i did some tofu, mushrooms and peppers, in the same bulgogi style that i have used twice before as well as beef and pork for the non hippies. unlike the first time, i decided that it was much more cost effective to make my own bulgogi marinade, not to mention being much more fun, and hopefully excellently and more awesome ( i’m well aware that that makes very little sense…). the recipe i used is pretty simple:

(this is for about 4-6 people)

  • 3 tablespoons  light soy
  • 2 tablespoons crushed garlic
  • 1 teaspoon crushed ginger
  • 2 tablespoons brown sugar
  • 2 tablespoons korean chilli paste
  • 2 tablespoons korean fermented bean paste
  • 1 teaspoon chilli flakes
  • 2 tablespoons sesame oil
  • 1 finely minced onion (i used the bamix and a splash of mirin to completely liquidize this guy)
  • sesame seeds
  • 1 tablespoon mirin

-mix it all up, marinate your meat.
like anything, i adjusted the quantities to get the flavour that i thought was right, and i went a little easier on the chilli than usual.

i made everything up the night before, and left the meat and tofu (seperated of course) to marinate.
the next day i loaded up the king of shopping, edwardes, with all the tools and ingredients and headed off to south london. the massive load unfortunately proved too much for edwardes, and his back whhel near exploded under the load, breaking a total of 9 spokes, which will lead to his untimely demise, at least in his current form.

anyway. everything went really straightforward, although cooking a large quantity of meat and rice on a small, shit stove in an advertising agency is considerably more difficult than i had anticipated. it would have been a lot easier if i’d had a hot plate that spanned two burners, but as it was, it turned out ok, i just cooked the meat in small batches and put it in the oven to keep warm.

everything else was super easy, there was plenty of food for everyone, it wasn’t too spicy, and it went really quickly, so i can only assume that it was a success. the only thing i noticed was that the beef was a little dry.

even though i enjoyed the experience, mostly because it’s pretty great to know that something you’ve created has given a whole bunch of people a tortilla full of joy, i don’t think i’m goign to start an office catering business just yet.

shallot tarte tatin

Posted in foodstuffs with tags , , on June 3, 2009 by mr_smith

…well, actually it was steak, polenta, beans and shallot tarte tatin.
shallot tarte tatin

the other night, i decided to cook a steak, the local had a half-price special on sirloin and combined with my cool handling of a particularly obnoxious turd at the counter beside which gained me the respect of the overworked meat slinger and resulted resulted in a further 50% reduction i ended up with a 500g sirloing for around £3.
i have a charcoal bbq, so that was a no-brainer as they say across the pond, and in a flash i recall reading a great idea for shallot tarte tatin on theKitchn.
luckily i had a pile of shallots and a few red onions already at home so again, a no-brainer. the recipe is super simple, particularly if (like me, ashamedly) you have some puff pastry already in the freezer, and you’re happy to use it.

I altered theKitchn recipe slightly and when cooking something llike this, i tend not to bother with weights and measures, because i’m rad.

basically the recipe is:

heat the oven to about 200c
cut a red onion into rings, and cook it slowly in butter in a heavy, ovenproof pan. (mine was a le creuset around 15cm across and about 3cm deep).
cut shallots in half (or don’t if they’re small). add them into the pan with the onions.
let them cook for a bit, then add some balsammic vinegar. you want it to be pretty dry by the time it goes into the oven, so the more you add, the more you’ll have to reduce, and the more syrupy-vinegary-sweet-acid the whole event will be.
i also splashed in a little white wine and some dried oregano.

roll out the pastry so it’s just a little bigger than the pan you’re using in a circle (or the same shape as the pan, if you happen to be using an unorthodox pan), to about 3mm thick.

put the pastry on top of the onion/shallot/balsammic in the pan and poke it down the sides.
put it in the oven
cook till golden brown and a puffy, ensuring your flatmate’s girlfriend does not turn off the oven before the food is cooked.

take it out of the oven, put a plate or something similar over the pan, and turn it over.

shallot tarte tatin. rad.
steak, polenta, beans, and shallot tarte tatin

i just seasoned the steak we got, grilled it to rare, grilled some hard polenta, and steamed some beans as well. it was a little strange, because although the steak was lovely, the savoury tarte tatin was totally the centrepiece of the meal.

try it.

the vegan bbq

Posted in foodstuffs on May 26, 2009 by mr_smith

there’s nothing better in this land of eternal sunshine than the conjunction of two important astrological events. namely the end of a long-weekend and the beginning of national bbq week. i have to admit, that i had not anticipated having a bbq, which is an event normally associated with the grilling of bloody flesh into delectable chunks of joy, with a large posse of vegans. vegans who, admittedly were all sweet and completely lacking the aggressive millitant approach that so often reflects badly upon their kind. I decided that i would rise, culinarily , to the challenge, and prepare a feast of vegan treats to add to the communal table. i hit upon home made pita bread, hummous, vegan burgers and vegan cupcakes for desert.

so in order:

the pita bread was easy, surprisingly easy in fact. i began by consulting the fresh loaf, an amazing repository of baking advice. i found their recipe so effective, that i didn’t even need to adapt it, so i’ll just reproduce it here:

3 cups flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 Tablespoon sugar or honey
1 packet yeast (or, if from bulk, 2 teaspoons yeast)
1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups water, roughly at room temperature
2 tablespoons olive oil, vegetable oil, butter, or shortening

combine, knead, prove, knock back, rest, rollout, bake for about 3 mins. eat.
i’m learning that you always need to knead, and knead some more to bake the good breads

hummous is easy too, and a real winner. smash up chickpeas, garlic, lemon juice, tahini, salt, pepper, olive oil gradually until it tastes nice.
vegan burgers were a bit harder. without the eggs to bind them up they can go very crumbly, but the addition of rice flour helped it to bind ok, and then a pre baking before their time on bbq meant they worked out really well.

the big disappointment was the vegan cupcakes. completely fucked. i really don’t know what caused their unfortunate failure, again it was the lack of eggs, i fear. apparently there’s many ingredients like soy yoghurt and flaxseed and such like to help replace the binding and leavening effect of the hen’s bounty. so back to the drawing board i go.

as for the actual bbq, a remarkable vegetable kebab courtesy of cyanide cupcake and my vegan burgers filled our pita breads with meat free, cruelty free, ideology free friendship. the pre-mixed mojito alcopops flowed, and so did the rain, at which point we all rushed in to take turns behind the wheel of bekki’s boat shaped bar.

who woud have thought you could have such fun without meat!

korean birdreedo

Posted in foodstuffs on March 3, 2009 by mr_smith

first, i have to state that this is a totally brilliant concept, and not one of my own devising. i was first alreted to the concept by the amazing kogi bbq story, and i got the original recipe from seriouseats, which i often mine for culinary inspiration.

basically, after an entirely successful sunday breakfast of bacon and egg quesadillas, we had several toritllas (actually they were turkish tortilla style flatbreads, but let’s not split hairs, ok, at least not today). rather than see them dry out and curl up at the edges, mocking my predilection for wasteful profligacy (you didn’t see that coming, did you?), i racked my brains for something to do with them. lo and behold, up into my rss reader pops the aforementioned article on seriouseats.

a lack of time, and a late finish at the office solving river crimes across the galaxy, meant that i didn’t quite have the inclination to make my own bulgogi sauce. wrestling with my own weakness, i headed straight for my favourite japanese-korean supermarket to pick up a jar of excellent pre made bulgogi marinade, along with some amazingly zesty and powerfully stanked kim chee. the previously mentioned recipe suggests finely chopping both the pork and the kim chee, but i prefer to stripify the entire affair, so left the kim chee chunky and cut the pork into long strips.

i also really wanted to use the lime marinated onions, but had no limes. disaster i hear you wail. indeed no. my ever agile mind settled upon the amazing flavour combination of lemon juice, lemon zest and mirin. worked a treat. i also added some iri goma (black toasted sesame seeds) and nori flakes to the rice, for some extra jazz.

if you’ve never had a korean birdreedo, then stop farqing around and make one immediately, you’ll never look back

japan, wacky

Posted in Uncategorized on February 25, 2009 by mr_smith

i don’t know if it’s just me, but i can’t decide if this is a stroke of sheer genious, or in fact an act of unbridled madness. i’m going with a 50/50 split.
i’m also in the initial phase of constructing something similar for my own backyard, but more like a giant gloria estefan.

originally from geekologie

sir, you are a genius, and my hat is off to you

Posted in Uncategorized on February 20, 2009 by mr_smith
copyright benoit lemoine

i like to think of myself a something of a visionary. a sort of renaissance man for the declining years of the naughties. i like to feel as if i’ve made a difference, in whatever small way. but then along comes this guy:

this is exactly the kind of genius that makes even a man such as me doff my cap.

zipper tape.  rad.

why on earth didn’t i think about it?

with this little baby you could go and zip pretty much anything you want.

check out his website to see the real world applications of this magic tape

it’s just a nice touch…

Posted in Uncategorized with tags , on February 6, 2009 by mr_smith

the new brazillian cleaners at my work have gone the extra mile with toilet paper. i’m usually the first person in in the morning, due my exceptionally fast bicycle, and i change from my superhero costume into my workaday disguise in the bathroom. i’ve noticed that, ever since we have had new brazillian cleaners (i’m not actually sure that they are brazillian, but i like to image them as happy, tropical types unable to stop the samba as they go about their duties with a sunny disposition) the morning presentation of the toilet paper in the gents has taken a dramitic turn for the better.

delightful, isn't it

delightful, isn't it

as you can see, they’ve taken to to folding the end of the roll diagonally upon itself, and (here’s where the genius lies) then tucking the now sharp corner back around the remaining bulk of the roll and into the carboard tube at the core of the roll (and there’s a whole other post in determining what that tube is actually called). it’s a little bit of unexpected refinement that brings great joy to my mornings. i don’t work at the ritz, but there’s no way i could return to mornings being greeted by a ragged, unruly length of tissue, flapping in the breeze and mocking my own satorial attention to detail. so bless you, whoever you are, your eforts have not gone unnoticed, and i hope that as you leave our decrepit office in the chill of predawn, your morning’s work complete, you go home with your head held high, satisfied, proud in the knowledge that you have made a difference, and the world is a tucked corner better than it was yesterday.

sometimes magic happens

Posted in Uncategorized with tags , on January 12, 2009 by mr_smith

having just returned to this thriving and unpleasantly wet metropolis straddling the muddy tidal thames, i am suffering a little from jet-lag, SAD, and the cavernous yearning at being sepparated from mrs smith. so being a little down, i dove into a packet of no-name cheese balls in an effort to cheer myself up. two thirds through my e-number celebration, and my mood had still not lifted, until the penultimate ball touched my lips and melted in an explosion of pure intense cheese flavour magic. a lurid orange pleasure bomb consisting entirely of cheese flavour. paradise.

and i got a payrise too.